Teamwear Fabric Guide: GSM, Knits, Recycled Polyester and Kit Styles
Fabric decides how a kit feels in the 80th minute, how it prints and how long it lasts. It is also the biggest cost line and the main driver of minimum order quantity when a custom color is needed. This guide explains GSM, the common knits and fibres used in teamwear, recycled options, and the construction choices that matter for jerseys, shorts, socks, tracksuits, goalkeeper and referee kits.
What GSM tells you (and what it does not)
GSM means grams per square metre: the weight of one square metre of fabric. Typical ranges in teamwear:
| Use | Typical GSM range |
|---|---|
| Lightweight match or replica jerseys | about 100–140 |
| General training and match jerseys | about 130–160 |
| Heavier jerseys, rugby or durable training tops | about 160–220+ |
| Shorts (woven or knitted polyester) | about 100–160 |
| Tracksuit and jacket outer fabric | about 180–300 |
Lower GSM usually means lighter and cooler but can be more transparent and less durable. GSM alone does not tell you breathability or stretch: an open mesh at 140 GSM can breathe better than a dense interlock at 120. Always pair GSM with the knit type and fibre, and request a swatch. Lab-measured GSM often varies a few percent from the stated value; agree a tolerance (such as ±5%) if weight matters.
Common fibres and knits
Polyester
The standard for performance teamwear: light, quick-drying, colorfast and the only fibre suitable for full sublimation. Moisture-wicking performance comes from fibre shape and finishing.
Polyester-elastane
Adds stretch for fitted jerseys, base layers and goalkeeper tops. Typical elastane content is a few percent up to about 10–20% for compression wear.
Cotton and cotton-poly blends
Used for fan wear, casual tees and polos. Comfortable but heavier when wet and not suitable for full sublimation (blends with high polyester content can be partially sublimated with a more faded look).
Knit structures
- Interlock: smooth surface, good for sharp sublimation prints
- Mesh (eyelet, bird's-eye, honeycomb): open holes for ventilation, often used on side or back panels
- Piqué: textured, used for polos
- Jacquard: pattern knitted into the fabric, used for tonal designs on premium jerseys
Recycled and lower-impact fabrics
Recycled polyester (rPET), commonly made from post-consumer plastic bottles, performs similarly to virgin polyester and sublimates well. If sustainability claims will appear on hang tags or your website:
- Ask for documentation from the fabric mill, such as a transaction certificate under a recognised scheme like the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) or Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)
- Confirm the recycled percentage of the actual fabric, not the supplier's general range
- Avoid vague claims like "eco-friendly"; regulators in several markets require claims to be specific and supported
Recycled fabric can cost more and have higher minimums in custom colors, so check early.
Jersey construction choices
Collar styles
- Crew neck: simple, comfortable, works for any print
- V-neck: classic football look; can have a contrast insert
- Polo or button collar: retro and formal kits; heavier and warmer
- Wrap-over or mock-wrap V: modern match look
Specify rib or self-fabric collar, width and color.
Fit and sleeves
Standard, slim or athletic fit; raglan or set-in sleeves; short or long sleeves. Raglan sleeves give freedom of movement and fewer shoulder seams under prints.
Shorts
- Woven polyester (crisp, durable) or knitted polyester (softer, sublimation-friendly)
- Waistband: full elastic with internal drawcord is standard
- Inner brief or no lining; side vents; pockets for training shorts
- Leg length per size; number positions on the leg
Socks
Football socks are knitted on circular sock machines, often with:
- Cushioned foot zones and ribbed or compression legs
- Knitted-in color stripes or logos (more complex designs can raise MOQ, since machines need setup per design)
- Footless sleeve options for players who wear grip socks
Confirm size ranges by shoe size and leg length, and whether the logo is knitted in or printed.
Tracksuits
Tracksuits combine a jacket and pant, often in knitted polyester (tricot or brushed back) or a woven shell. Specify zip type and length, pocket zips, cuffs, ankle zips, tapered or straight legs, and decoration method (embroidery and heat transfer are common; sublimation needs a light polyester base).
Goalkeeper kits
Goalkeeper tops are usually long-sleeved, may have padded elbows, and need a color that contrasts with both teams' outfield kits and the referees, as most competition rules require. Elastane blends help fit; padded shorts or trousers are common for youth and artificial pitches.
Referee kits
Referee shirts typically need several color options per set so referees can avoid clashes, chest pockets for cards and notebook, and badge positions defined by the association. Check your federation's requirements before ordering.
Fabric and style checklist
- ☐ Fibre and knit chosen per garment and panel
- ☐ GSM stated with tolerance; swatch approved
- ☐ Fabric compatible with decoration method
- ☐ Stretch and opacity checked on the swatch (white fabrics especially)
- ☐ Recycled content and certificate documentation, if claimed
- ☐ Collar, sleeve and fit defined
- ☐ Shorts waistband, lining and leg length specified
- ☐ Sock size ranges and logo method confirmed
- ☐ Goalkeeper and referee color rules checked
How to compare fabric quotes
Two suppliers quoting "160 GSM polyester" may be offering quite different fabrics. When comparing, ask each one for the fabric name or mill code, composition, knit type, finish (wicking, anti-pill, anti-odour), whether the color is stock or custom-dyed, and the minimum quantity for that color. Then compare the swatches side by side for weight, handfeel, stretch recovery, opacity and how a sublimation test print looks. The cheapest fabric on paper can become the most expensive if it pills after a few washes or needs a separate dye lot.
FAQ
What GSM is best for a soccer jersey?
Many match and training jerseys sit around 130–160 GSM. Choose lighter fabrics for hot climates and replica wear, heavier ones for durability and colder seasons, and always check a swatch.
Is recycled polyester as durable as regular polyester?
In general, recycled polyester performs similarly in strength and sublimation quality. Quality depends on the specific mill, so judge it from a sample.
Can I sublimate on a dark fabric?
No. Sublimation ink is transparent and needs a white or light polyester base. Dark designs are achieved by printing the dark color into white fabric.